Advanced Wall Stamps and Wall STLs Guide!

Hi Guys!

The day is here! I finally managed to wrangle these pieces together, fully test printed and ready to go :) These have now been shared with Those who were patrons in the month of November, and will be Bonus throwbacks for this month (shared to anyone who is a patron currently at the start of next month)

That said, there's more to the stamps than just print and play (and a little bit of guidance is needed for the walls too!)

Walls first, as there's less of it. There are two variants, the main versions have internal 4mm magnet slots for 4x2 or 4x4 magnets along the floor connections, depending on your preference. The variants have external 3x2 magnet slots. BOTH have external 3x2 magnets slots on the tops and thin sides, as they're far less visible there :)

These pieces can be easily magnetised with wire, there are 1.5mm wire holes (for 1mm wire!) along the usual half inch rows between bricks where we would put them in the magnetised stone walls  bonus video - including on the window brick fillers!

The windows should fit the sills and windows from the earlier release perfectly too, and there's room for optional 3x2 magnets there too for more grip.

All the walls are hollow and lightweight, and can be cleaned up on the inside with the back end of a paintbrush. you probably wont get all the supports, but you'll get most of them which is all that really matters!

Right! Now for the Advanced Stamps!

I call these advanced as they won't do very well without the methods that go with them. namely, we need to apply a LOT more force than usual, far more so than even rolling pin rollers.

To this end, there are two main methods I recommend, though realistically, you can get two hard flat objects, and sit on the things to much the same effect. it's just a bit more awkward!

I started by using a cheap £3 rubber camping mallet, but ended up moving on to a 6" woodworking vice.

The mallet certainly has advantages. It's cheap, fast and effective. It is however, also VERY loud and has the POTENTIAL to break the stamp. This only happened with me when I went a little overboard deliberately, and was easily repaired with superglue - but it can happen if you're not careful. This can be mitigated by putting a large enough flat hard object (like a thick piece of mdf or other wood) on top of the stamp. the wood absorbs the impact and spreads it across the stamp.

The vice however, has its own perks. It's silent, still reasonably fast, VERY effective, and has no real risk of breaking the stamp as the pressure is evened out. It is however, £20 new (Equipment list link, it's at the bottom), though I'm sure you can get these MUCH cheaper second hand.

Either way, when aiming for a half inch wall tile, I recommend using a stamp on either side, and using a slightly thicker than half inch (by up to 1/16" thicker) piece of foam, as the process does squish it slightly.

Other than that the process is easy. Don't bother screwing the vice to the desk, just use the edge of the desk as part of the clamp! Add the stamps underneath, and turn the handle until secure.

Then just tighten the clamp until there's about a 16" gap left. This doesn't need to be perfect, just don't fully close the stamp. This also helps with peeling it apart!

Peeling it is pretty straightforward for the first side, for the second side I recommend pulling at one side to loosen, then pulling out the other side. For BOTH I recommend pulling at the short edges (so pull along the length of the wall)

Then it's just texture and you're pretty much done! You'll need to cut/bevel in the bricks along the top and sides if you want them, and the side edges may be a little curved but the texturing usually flattens that back out again.

You CAN also add further indenting to any bricks you don't like the texture on using the brick indenter from a previous release - the indented bricks won't catch the wheel texturer, but they do have their own texture from the stamp. I just sometimes find I want to add a little more.

Similarly you can run a sculpting tool or other sharp object along the brick gaps lengthways, the jagged teeth do leave their mark. it's mostly invisible once textured as the gaps close up more, but you can remove it this way if desired.

But that's it! As you can see you get a great level of depth and curved bricks (with NO little corner wisps! hate those!) AND it's all done in a fraction of the time.

I hope these pieces are useful to you, and I'll get back to working on the sewer videos!