Bunny Toki Wip2

I have noticed that it has been getting devilishly hot and I can feel summer approaching with my skin senses. However, June is the rainy season, which is not so easy for model makers. To avoid water from the airbrush, you should use a water separator or something similar.

I use this.

https://x.com/sukimasangyo2/status/1582933368437866499

It may not make much sense since it may not be available outside of Japan, but anyway, make sure you use a water separator that prevents water from coming out of the airbrush!

On surface treatment of hair parts (it wasn't that easy)

Surface treatment of long hair requires patience.

In my last article, I mentioned that it might save a lot of work time. It would certainly reduce the work time, but I still find bumps in the color surfacer that I could not sand before applying it....

This area is easy to understand.

I think the sanding was done quite well! ...and if you were thinking that, this is actually how the situation is supposed to go. But I already anticipated it and there is nothing wrong with it.

In the end, what is most difficult about long hair is that sanding is extremely time consuming in most cases with any kit.

Well, to put it another way, as long as you take your time, the process is 100% clean, so you need to work with a certain degree of separation. It is possible to work while listening to music and taking breaks with a Pomodoro.

Of course, this process is a painting to be discarded, so we do not remove all of the paint. It is exactly the same as the concept of “throw-away” surfacing. The only reason I use color surfacer instead of gray is because it is easier. When you use gray surfacer, you use gray because it is easier. It's the same thing.

After all, hard things are hard. The only way is to work steadily.

I have finished painting the skin, bunny suit, legs, and other parts except for the hair, so I will write about those parts as well.

About reference materials for color making and skin painting of bunny suits

┃It is difficult to make a mistake if you apply the skin color while looking at the material.

Regarding the painting of skin tones, I always try to keep a reference material nearby for my painting. For this Toki, I used Alter's St. Louis skin color as a reference.

Strictly speaking, this PVC finished figure has a little orange in the skin tone, so I did not make it the same, but it can be used as a reference for color density.

The hardest place to make a mistake would be if the publisher is putting all their effort into the figure. It's almost impossible to miss Azuren + Alter, for example. It would be a good idea to have such finished products as reference materials

┃The colors of bunny suits start here

This is a bit off topic, but here's how the launch of Bunny Suit went.

The highlighted area is not white, but the light greenish color in the background.

White is totally fine, but I do that because a slightly greenish highlight in a bluish-purple color makes it less monotonous. It is often expressed as creating depth of color, but I personally think it is a process of eliminating the monotonous and spaced-out parts.

Therefore, I try to keep the color scheme and gradation as less extreme as possible, but not monotonous either. I hope so.

The main color blue is a blue-purple mixed with cyan and magenta.

Note that if the paint is diluted considerably, it may look as if the solvent itself is scattered around the area. In that case, reset the area with light green again and then apply another layer of blue. If you make a mistake, do not remove the paint every time.

Once this nice color is achieved, apply a thin coat of purple blue (Majora paint) as a topcoat.

It's nice to see the magenta glow at partial angles

We do not clear coat because we want to keep the metallic look.

Paint the ears, ribbons, etc. in the same way.

After some progress, that's all for today. I will continue next time. Next time, I will write about the actual painting of the skin.