Official Release: The Carlson Ultra Probe Build Files And Instructions!

I have the Micronta tiny portable signal tracer which can pickup faintly with my ear near the small speaker from a tape recorder head connection. Will this make it more sensitive?

David Drake

I would like to request attachments to video 175

Mark Casciato

Michael in Florida

Michael in Florida

Please send attachment to build 175.

Michael in Florida

Respectfully request Ultra Probe Build Files and Instruction. Please send them to oalanjones@gmail.com

Orville Jones

Request for Attachments/Hi.My name is Barosov. Could email me attachments 174 to 182 for the Ultra Probe project. Please send them to-derser@mail.bg.

Barosov

Now $5/mo. Member. Trying to find the Ultra Probe docs again. ***Got the idea. PM Mr Carlson's Lab with item number and request docs. Get the idea now!

TWrightoldeng

I am a $2/month Patreon member, just joined. I would like to build the probe & can see the #175 Ultra Probe video and text that says see links below for documentation. However, only a patreon notice attachment is there. No docs. No guidance as to upgrade status needed to get the docs attachment. I enjoy your videos many years. A little help?

TWrightoldeng

Is there any reason why I shouldn't make the probe end removable, as was done in the TH-version ?

Jeff ODonnell

John search for the part numbers as indicated. Many manufacturers make these. BC807-40 (Manufacturers PN), Digi-Kay PN: 4786-BC807-40CT-ND Cut Tape

Kurt Fleischer

Alex, Although I'm still assembling my probe, I think more to the point of your question is that the ground plane on the back of the PC Board have continuity to the aluminum shell to avoid stray signals entering or exiting the probe. This is done by soldering to the end cap and more specifically to the Brass Insert that screws into it and mates with the aluminum end cap. The End Cap then screws into the Shell and therefore is grounded.

Kurt Fleischer

I was just about to start adding components when I noticed the version of the Probe Shell I have does not have the End Cap Inserts made from Brass. It seems to be made from Nylon or Plastic. I have doubts that I will be able to solder directly only to the End Cap. I believe it's Aluminum. Any thoughts about this?

Kurt Fleischer

Is the blue anodising on the probe shell conductive? If not do I need to take measures to ensure electrical continuity between the end caps and the body of the shell?

Alex Wade

I've look at Mouse DigiKey RS and even eBay they either have some of them not all or eBay wants £15 postage for a £2 SMD I assume in the USA there are more outlets for components so competition is a lot better and more plentiful.

Pete

Can someone please tell me where I can get the components for the above in the UK

Pete

Does anyone know the DigiKey part number for Q2-BC817 and Q3-BC807?

John Parker

Pm

Phillip Bell

RG400 for probe tip because of its rigidity. Your choice of coax for the signal to demod box.

Hugh

I also figured out how to use one pump. I was able to get the original pumps with the threaded brass insert. On these the pump handle shield is just press fitted to the unanodized barrel, so I was able to just pull it off. Then I enlarged the hole using a drill chuck on my mini-lathe, but this could also be done with a drill press. I also added an o-ring to that barrel just like the nozzle end fitting.

Paul Eisenberg

What coax is Mr. C using here, is it RG400 ???

Larry { N7LUF }

I built the ultra probe and have been doing some testing. I have a QUESTION for those who built one and have tested it with an oscilloscope. I'm getting a square wave on the output. Either that or it's clipping top and bottom. I'm fairly confident in my built even testing each component before and after soldering. Is this what others have experienced on an oscilloscope? My build looks great! I'll post some photos in the community if possible.

Kenneth Graham

What solder pump shell is recommended for this project? The units that I find don't have the removable nylon tip and are a straight rod without a shield around the plunger.

R M Wagar

Also curious. It would help those of us who don't do toner transfer at home and prefer ordering PCBs from PCBWay/JLCPCB.

Ivan Kravchenko

Sending the board design to a board house is forbidden? Or is that not considered "sharing"? Where do you state the exact license terms?

Matthias Martin

Thanks, Dana - will redo! Cheers

Matt Stephanson

I think a piece of aluminum tape such as what is used for sealing metal ducts might work, but there are vias to consider as well as unifying the grounding for the cables to the unit and the case. I would redo it with a double sided board, paint the etcher on one side with a sponge, drill and populate the vias, and then build the board. Thank you.

dana willis

Good morning Daniel, My experience with these is that the Ultra probe should simply be more sensitive and more versatile. I work restoring old radios. Thank you.

dana willis

Is a single sided board feasible or do we need that bottom ground plane (instead of jumpers)? I already got a third of the way through using a single sided board. Now I’m realizing I need to run jumpers or redo it on a double. Any advice anyone? Cheers and thanks for the design, Mr. Carlson!

Matt Stephanson

Question for those that built the super probe: I just finished the Ultra Probe and it’s great. I etched the boards and got all the parts to build the super probe, but never got to it as I was building other things. With now having the ultra probe, is there any benefit to having the super probe as well? I’m pretty much strictly working on vintage audio equipment, highest frequencies seen will probably be in the FM band. So basically best to have both, or will the ultra probe do everything the super probe will do?

Daniel Horton

Possible design suggestion for ultra probe: an stl file for a probe tip that can then be heat shrink wrapped to the shaft. Thank you.

dana willis

I was reading where some folks were having trouble finding the solder sucker with a brass threaded insert like Paul used and read that the Aven 17537 was a good one to get. I sadly purchased 4 of them from Mouser and the indeed do not have the brass insert, it’s plastic. That being said, I really don’t want to waste them and would like to use them for this build. Any ideas as to attaching the ground plane on the back of the board to the probe shell? I’m thinking as a last resort I could have a small wire that is soldered to the ground plane coming out of the back hole and is then immediately screwed into the aluminum end cap. Doesn’t look like the strongest or thickest aluminum out there, so hopefully the threads hold up. Secondly, what all are you using for the signal wire coming from the back? I was hoping to use something thin so that it’s agile. I have a large spool of RG178, would that be sufficient? Or go with something else?

Daniel Horton

Some build notes that may be helpful - Since you'll be soldering the braid, take care to avoid aluminum braided coax - the pump end of the solder sucker can be cut flush and used as the fitting for the probe end. No need for two pumps. - The hole will fit smaller coax, but can easily be opened up to accommodate standard rg59... No grommet needed. - this non-anodized machines aluminum end presents a conductive ground path right at a comfortable place for your fingers to grip the probe. It makes a noticeable difference in noise level @ high gain. - The Aven pumps do NOT have the brass fitting - a carefully made loop of 12awg solid copper can serve as a crush washer below the brass fitting --- this helps to bring the brass fitting up to a better height with more exposed slots to solder the board to. Mine threaded in too far... - leave your probe coax long enough to accommodate the shell fully unscrewed and board exposed, plus about an inch. This leaves room for servicing --- On the end of your probe coax, fold back the braid and cover in heat shrink. Once you do this, your diameter has increased and your probe shell is more or less captive (hence the need to leave the probe wire long enough) This folding back of the braid prevents the outer insulation on the coax from pulling off when you remove the front cover. If it pulls off, it's impossible to slide back down without trimming the insulation back to be able to grip the internals. - when trimming the probe center conductor, push down on the center insulator, then trim the center conductor. The insulator will rise back up and bury / protect the center conductor

Matt

out of stock

Wailin Free

do the capacitors and resistors need to be 1 % tolerance? Do the resistors need to be 1/4 or 1/watt surface mount version. I know its mentioned on the thruhole simplified version. THE 1% caps seem to be out if stick

Wailin Free

Paul, congratulations on another fantastic DIY creation. I just finished putting two together (just if I blow one up). I used another Heathkit probe shell I had, and I can say the sensitivity is a magnitude higher than the Superprobe. I can listen to the backlight on my iPhone go on and off from about 6-8 inches away. I'll post some pics in the community section if that is still an option.

joseph

OK sir, I am going to build this. I have an old Moseley STL receiver on 950MHz that has a noisy component somewhere in the baseband module, only after several hours of being powered on, and I can not find it with any of the equipment I presently have. It must be a little cap or resistor but my trusty lafayette KT-208 can't hear it. I guess I can use the KT-208 as the amplifier for the Ultra Probe. This should be fun. Thanks for all the great work you do for us.

AERVBlog

I may be wrong, but there is issue with Q4. This transistor is in SOT-23-3 and based on datasheet 1-B/2-D/3-E while on PCB I see it flipped to 1-C/2-E/3-B.

David Zolkiewicz

Finally making progress on the probe. Got a clean transfer and etching done. Just need to drill the few holes and trim the board to fit the housing then populate it. I'm going to use the probe initially with a small Pignose guitar amplifier, LOL :)

Scott OToole

Nylon bushing, not brass.

Matt

OK, after multiple orders and several unusually long delays with overseas shipping I think I finally have all the parts I need to tackle this project. But I have a really stupid question to ask first. Paul, you've mentioned a few times that there's a "community of members" who have shared their builds online and can help answer some questions. Where is this community exactly? Is it separate from the comments section underneath your Patreon videos? Is there a link to it? Thanks!

kmpres

Just got round to makjng up the pcb - first I've done for over 30 yrs. I used commercial transfer paper pnp blue from techniks.com with a Brother L2305 laser printer, sodium persulfate etching solution, then a Dremel to remove the mask with a wire brush, buff it up and then drill out. Near perfect results. Might make a Youtube on the process. Many thanks to Paul for a great project🙏🙏🙏

John

Rob

If you're ordering from mouser or digikey, the Aven 17537 solder sucker seems to be the right one, around $8 usd.

John

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! C$10.90 23%OFF | LEFAVOR Aluminum Powerful Desoldering Pump Suction Tin Gun Soldering Sucker Pen Removal Vacuum Solder Iron Welding Repair Tool https://a.aliexpress.com/_msvqf8O Instead of having to buy 2 of the other type

TWISTED1

Will do Mike, once the entire design is finished.

Mr Carlson's Lab

Professor C: are you going to provide an exegesis on this design? There are several (!) bits of design that are novel (to me at least). It's pretty clear you've used them more than once before.

Mike O'Dell

My understanding: nowhere unless you want to close the “switch” to the red power supply side. You can just leave it unconnected, which is the default “open” state.

Lobstah

I have a PM into Paul, but maybe someone can help here in the meantime. I'm confused about where the black wire terminates at the power supply end. If the red goes to positive on the power supply and the braided shield goes to negative on the power supply, where does the black wire that is involved in the gain switch go?

Brad Shugart

Regarding the V1 schematic: I wonder if the BOM could be reduced a little bit: If I understand it correctly, Q2 and Q6 are fully saturated if the Gain switch is closed. Could e.g. Q6 and its base circuitry be eliminated and the two 2k resistors tied together on the collector of Q2? There should not be any crosstalk between Q3 and Q5 here. On the other hand, if the Gain switch is open, Q2 is high impedance and there could be some crosstalk between Q3 and Q5, if their collector voltage levels would differ in operation. I'm not sure if this is a concern, but a silicon diode in series with each 2k resistor could decouple it. Also, on closing the Gain Switch, the .1µF capacitor would be charged with high current; there is no current limiting resistor. Is this capacitor really necessary, since the base of Q2 and Q6 are decoupled with 10k/10µF anyway?

recap38

Ken Fay noticed this and I see in the new schematic it is not addressed. He said: I think I found a mistake in the schematic. The 1M resistor above Q1 on the schematic goes through a 120 ohm resistor to the power rail. On the PC board the 1M above Q1 goes directly to the power rail. Is the schematic wrong or is the PCB layout wrong? There won't be much difference if the 1M goes directly to the +V rail or through the 120 ohm resistor but I think both the layout and the schematic should agree.

Donald J Arndt

Hi Patrick, I design boards with an older program known as Circuitmaker 2000 Pro.

Mr Carlson's Lab

https://www.amazon.com/POBADY-Jumper-Coaxial-Cable-Antenna/dp/B09N3KP9YZ/

Lee Arft

I recognize the RG400 isn't mandatory but it would make life easier. I ran a search for RG400 and one option I see that might work and be minimally expensive is to buy a short jumper cable made with RG400. Amazon (at least here in the US) has a series of jumpers with "N" type fittings that could be cannibalized for the cable. Here's one for $8:

Lee Arft

Awesome stuff Paul! Definitely going to build this one. Just curious, do you use KiCAD? Or ever plan to release projects using it? Cheers and Thanks!

Patrick

I can get you one made up

Matt Tucker

I am not the best with keeping things organized, but especially with SMD stuff I keep in the bag it came in! :-D

Matt Tucker

Hey it's Mr Blueglow! I've been working my way through your oscilloscope playlist here lately. Good stuff!!! Trying to get some more use out of mine, which has been neglected for too long!

Matt Tucker

Hello Bart, See my post earlier in these comments. I made my purchase from https://www.dxengineering.com/

Alan Blumenstock

Handles, around here we make Handles, something I can finally use that conductive pla on

Mike Pelletier

Hello Mr. C! Please disclose the type of Teflon 50 ohm coax you used for the amplifier end of the probe. It looks nice and thin. All I have on hand is RG174.

Bart H

Can you show more about what all can be done with the Heathkit signal tracer? I have the same model and since I'm just starting out have no real ideal of how to use it.

Kurt Hewell

Solomon Solder pump listing on Lee's Electronics (CA) : https://leeselectronic.com/en/product/10103-10103desolderingpumpmetalshortso.html

dana willis

Pual, I'm new to component level repair and building. I'm going to try to tackle the ultra probe, so I purchased all of the components. Once they started coming in, I wondered, how in the world do repair shops organized the components they keep on hand. It's not like you can read the color code like a traditional resistor. I was able to come up with a method of my own, but it is probably not the best.

Jason Bryant

I am looking for someone who can construct a circuit board for me. I am willing to compensate you for your time and expenses. Due to my age and poor eyesight, I am unable to make the circuit board myself. However, I do have an AmScope microscope to assist with populating the circuitboard with parts. Thanks for your help!

Rich Hatch

I purchased the following at Mouser: "Aven 17537" and just got it. Looks the same only the brass piece onto which Paul solders the board is not brass but nylon in this version. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/119-17537

John Sellers

I got the solder pumps from Stew Mac -never used them before but worked out. I am probably going to build a couple -one with the extra features and one to go with my vintage signal tracer. The Amazon/eBay listings for solder pump seemed ok but a bit vague on exact model

Alistair Salisbury

Thanks Paul you are amazing and have created another GREAT tool. I look forward to building this probe and will let you know how it goes.

Guy K. Griffith

@ Asle, The answer to your question is in the video @ 35:46 (time line) .

Ovi4

Hi Paul, I have bought all the parts I needed, and I have also made the circuit board. What abbout the coax, do I have to use that RG400, or can I use what I have, like rg58? If I shall order just that little piece of RG400 it will cost me alot with the postage included, , but if I have to I will of course order it. 73 Asle

Asle Runar Borgersen

Dear Paul I have no words to explain or say how much I admire your work and my gratitude to you for share your knowledge with us. Thank you! PS: The project for the amplifier box would be another blast.

Andrés Viana

I just ordered Digikey MMBT5089LT1GOSCT-ND , link https://www.digikey.fi/en/products/detail/onsemi/MMBT5089LT1G/919612 . If you already ordered other parts and are in Helsinki metropolitan area, I can give you a dozen to get your project started! You will find my email with google and my phone number is also public, ending 558.

Antti Louko

I started to place an order for the parts but both Digikey and Mouser tell me that MMBT5089 is obsolete & not available. Great. Can someone suggest a suitable replacement part ( available in EU )

Kari Sillanmäki

Thanks Mr. Carlson for all the time and effort you have put into this and giving back to the DIY electronics community. Again, thanks for all you do and always looking forward to what you have in store next.

Blueglow

@ Per Thomas Jahr. Please watch the video once again and make sure you pay close attention to every little detail that has been discussed. In other words, black is connected to the switch (Pad) and red carries the +Volts and the shield itself carries the Ground. Please note that the switch wire(the black wire in this case) will connect to the +V to make the switch NOT to the ground (like you stated). Regarding the wiring MCL used they are only for a quick demo, not the final solution. MCL talked about a follow up video in which he'll release the so called ,,base unit,, (a little Power Amp) that will contain the power source and some extra features. I assume (according to what MCL has already mentioned on a previous video) that there will be some kind of individually shielded multicore cable in the final design. (similar to the one used for the super probe project but perhaps with more cores) I hope it helps.

Ovi4

Just a question about the two cables that goes out of the probe. One is a coax cable with BNC connector, but the other one is a cable with a shield and then two cables inside the shield (red and black). The red is the positive supply from for example a 9v battery, and the shield should then be connected to the negative of the 9v battery? The black cable can be connected to negative/ground for example with a toggle switch to enable the gain? Have I understood it correctly?

Per Thomas Jahr

Yep found this as well...

Philippe Penochet

"Let the music flow..."

Ernest Mueller

I found some KOASpeer 20M resistors on mouser that were normally priced, some I found were nearly $1.60 each! https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/RK73B2BTTD206J?qs=3rpv%2F4MEAQmcQSywcgTH6Q%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

Matt Tucker

Have you tried now ? It works no problem here.

Ovi4

It sure will.

Mr Carlson's Lab

Regarding the switching MCL mentioned that we'll need to find a solution for using some individually shielded multicore cable simply because one or to of the cores will be used for switching. So logically thinking there will be some local switch but mounted/located on the power amplifier box, the so called ,,base unit,, that MCL talked about and he is still to release that to us, hopefully by the next video or so.

Ovi4

Thanks, Paul. The Ultra Probe looks great! I am planning on building this one.

Robert Calk Jr.

Okay, I have to ask as I have no coax on hand. Will this work for this project? https://www.awcwire.com/product/rg-400-c Thank, Alan

Alan Blumenstock

I found everything on Mouser except weirdly the 20 MEG resistors although that could be user error. Found them on Digikey. Havent done a Carlson build for a while -looks great. Will have to recalibrate soldering techniques as been doing lots of crusty vacuum tube resurrections/restorations.

Alistair Salisbury

Just tried downloading Carlson Ultra Probe V1 Schematic.pdf - I get an error "{"errors":[{"code":902,"code_name":"AttachmentNotFound","detail":"Attachment with id 15796188 was not found.","id":"33fa96d1-8984-5735-9bee-bca14626fd37","status":"404","title":"Attachment was not found."}]}"

Malcolm Gill

You are correct, too many late hours on my end, the new schematic is uploaded. The PCB layout is fine, it is correct.

Mr Carlson's Lab

Excellent Paul, Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You may have mentioned it, but my memory isn't what it used to be. What thickness is the PCB?

Brian Wood

Looks like the only part I am missing is the 10uF caps. I have a bunch of 22uF 1206 16V caps. I am guessing the value is not critical, but want to ask before a take on a folly. Do you think this substitute is OK? Thanks.

Dennis Cabell

I found another difference between the schematics and the PCB. In the schematics, Q1 is biased with 1M which is connected to the collector of the Q1. In the PCB, the 1M is directly connected to VCC (3-9V DC). This shouldn't really matter, and the PCB choice is probably more stable as the output current doesn't affect so much.

Antti Louko

Q3 and Q5 should be upside down on schematic. Looked at PCB layout and confirmed it. Also can you add actual PCB dimension after cutting for exact fit? Don't have access to printer right now.

Ako Ojamets

I noticed the same difference between the schematics and the PCB. If the schematics is correct, the circuit is so called reverse active mode and it has advantages in some situations. My brain always tries to refuse to analyze that. If the PCB is correct, the circuit makes sense, as well. Transistors are basically used as switches so the gain value doesn't matter very much here. I suspect either alternative works well enough.

Antti Louko

@ Keri, yes I've spotted that as well but one explanation could be the following: Taking the PCB for granted since it has been produced and it works. Now examining the pinout of BC807 (Q3 and Q5) it is clear as day that on the schematic the emitter and collector has been drawn in reverse (by mistake I suppose, probably tired eyes, lack of sleep) but I'm pretty sure MCL will explain. The same applies to the last 120 Ohms from the schematic (the one that feeds Q1 with +V) on the PCB it looks different. again MCL I'm sure will tell us at some point.

Ovi4

If anyone of you MrC students make the circuit board, can you make an extra for me?

Donald J Arndt

Hello Mr. Carlson, forgive me if I sound critical, but I am wondering if "Q3" and "Q5" have inadvertently been drawn incorrectly on the Circuit diagram. Unless I am forgetting something, I think that maybe the "collectors" and "Emitters", should be swapped round, so that the Emitters go to the junction of the 10uf, 120 / 10k and the collectors go to the junction of the 10k and 1.2k. If I am mistaken, please accept my apologies.

Kevin Darling

I actually did use a cigar tube...Camacho Connecticut Robusto (looks kinda cool too)

dana willis

Mr.C is probably catching up on sleep...Thanks for this ! Parts on order. Perhaps a simple project down the line would be how to properly calculate values for and replace ballast resistors ;)...great to be able to be a pupil of such a brilliant fella's teachings!

dana willis

I think I missed something. How are you switching between High and Low sensitivity? Or are you leaving that to our discretion? Since the shell is aluminum, I was wondering if a small magnetic switch would work without introducing any electrical field effect since it is so sensitive. Or possibly having a third shielded wire and having the switch to ground built into the upcoming box you are currently designing. What are your thoughts? Thank you for the endless time you give us to not only educate us, but help us achieve our own goals to advance.

James Roberts

@ Borgersen. SOT23 is just a name designation for the type of package that the factory uses to build a transistor (SMD style) like in your case MMBT5089. You wont find the SOT23 combination within the naming of a transistor . But you'll always find it in the Datasheet. Every component has a Datasheet assigned to it by the manufacturers. It is wise to always refer to it if you don't know much about a particular component. You'll be amazed of how many other specs that component has and need to be taken in consideration. As a side note, regarding the package style a component can have, just beware that certain components come in more that one package style. But than again reading the Datasheet always ,,clears the fog,,. Good luck with your build. Datasheets to almost every component on the planet can easily be found on the internet in the form of a PDF file.

Ovi4

I love these things you share with us. Paul. I have no idea how many hours you put in this, but I guess that it is a lot. It is very kind of you to share these inventions with us. I have a question and a suggestion for you: I am a licenced ham radio operator, and many times in the summer here in Norway I am out in the forest or mountains and operate radio portable. But sometimes I have been surprised by thunderstorms, and that is not so funny. Have you ever thought of building a device that can warn us if a thunderstorm is coming closer? Either by a beep or a LED...or both.

Asle Runar Borgersen

Hi Paul. sorry for this stupid question, but I haven't done much smd-jobs. What is SOT23? I find easy semiconductors like MMBT5089, but it doesn't say SOT23. 73 LB5JG

Asle Runar Borgersen

Thanks Paul. Will build this after obtaining a few more parts. My order from Parts-Express just arrived yesterday from the US and was supposed to include two Solomon SH-817B solder suckers but sadly, they were clones and lacked the metal end caps. I jumped too quickly, it seems, and should have waited to read further the comments other people have made here. Fortunately StewMac still has them in stock and hopefully they will be the right ones. If not, my Plan B is to search locally for an Engineer SS-02 and if that fails, Plan C is to use a metal cigar tube. I rather like Plan C because it makes constructive use of something that once symbolized a smelly and unhealthy lifestyle -- being a cancer survivor that gives me an odd sense of satisfaction. However, if I go that route I'm going to have to be clever about grounding the end cap to the circuit board.

kmpres

I think I found a mistake in the schematic. The 1M resistor above Q1 on the schematic goes through a 120r resistor to the power rail. On the PC board the 1M above Q1 goes directly to the power rail. Am I missing something ?

Ken Fay

Hey, I'm still wondering why those gain switching PNP transistors (Q3, Q5) have their emitters on the load side rather than supply rail :). Using a solder sucker as an enclosure was waaaaaaay beyond brilliant!

Keri Szafir

Paul, it may be prudent to observe that a lot of these solder sucker shells are *greased* inside to facilitate smooth operation. Thus, I’d recommend cleaning the entire tube with a suitable degreaser, rinsing and drying before use.

Matt

I almost built a super probe, but I lacked a work bench. Just bought one. I bought a Flexispot 55"x30" for my computer. I decided to switch that one over to be my work bench and I bought another one that is 55"x28". What is special about these is that they have a motor that raises them from 29" to 48" high. So I can sit or stand. Really nice. I ordered the parts you recommended in the first video the second I watched it. Thanks for the tremendous amount of time.

Chris Bennett

Thank you for working Hard and teaching us the best

Nick Vacalo

Is a bare circuit board available Paul? 73, Jim W7RY

James Colville

This may pick up my wife's Thoughts .

James e adams

Thanks Paul! I am a old computer/accounting mach. tech. I've enjoyed radio as a hobby all of my life. I'm learning quite a lot from your videos. I'm impressed with your inventions.

R. Scott99

Feeling like a real noob :) answered my own question with I micrometer .

TWISTED1

Same here, same question.

Dennis Cabell

Order placed! Thanks Paul!

Philippe Penochet

This being my 1st pcb build . How thick is the board that I should order to build this ? I've done stuff on perf board . But never built a board from scratch . Thx Paul for all you do . I look forward to every video you put out ! Ps. Get some sleep . Mission accomplished:)

TWISTED1

Would 0805 sized parts fit on these pads? I've got quite a few 0805s on hand.

Matt Tucker

Amazin'. Bandwidth?

Tom Harris

It would. The probe shell would be larger, but it would work.

Mr Carlson's Lab

I haven't done any circuit board prototyping. Would your method using the rotating punch tool and universal circuit board work for this project?

Chris F.

Paul, thanks for telling me to wait for the Ultra Probe. Well worth the wait.

Jim MacLean

Absolutely.

Mr Carlson's Lab

Can the probe connect to a guitar amp input? I use one of those for my diy signal probe now.

Chris F.

And I was wondering what I was going to do with my weekend…

Scott Nance