Let's Make A Circuit Board!
Added 2017-06-13 14:49:32 +0000 UTCHere is the circuit board for the last video, (Wien Bridge Oscillator.) In the attachments below, you will find a parts map, and the scaled layout. When it's built, share your results and pictures in the community section.
Patreon NEW LIST of Videos: https://www.patreon.com/posts/8239565
This is video #15, include this when requesting attachments.
HP Paper UPC: 884962 248607
Product: CG988A
Comments
I thought i saw a board printing service on the web, not too long ago?
Jim Halcom
2025-12-01 22:00:38 +0000 UTCThank you Mr. Paul
LoSaYa
2022-10-19 16:48:47 +0000 UTCWhere can I seethe schematic for this oscillator? anyone
Anthony G. Hay Sr.
2022-05-19 16:56:44 +0000 UTCI had (still have 30 years later) the same kit!
Ryan Dunbar W1RMD
2022-05-04 18:52:48 +0000 UTCSo what are you using to drill the board? A Dremel?
Ty Jay
2022-01-20 01:13:04 +0000 UTCI found some old HP glossy paper, but is 44lb / #160 instead of #120. Any ideas if this might work?.? I have a bunch of this stuff and will probably try it out unless anyone says it won't.
David Olchewsky
2022-01-19 19:17:05 +0000 UTCWhy not? Does placing resistors upended change the PERFORMANCE? It's probably good mindset practice!
Michael Hamann
2021-12-27 23:09:18 +0000 UTCThis seems to be it's successor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBJKYTU?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Paul Fechtmeister
2021-12-02 04:33:49 +0000 UTCWorking on getting the components for this.....Some confusion on the TL072 chip when I go to Mouser etc. as there are many choices for through-hole : Mfr Part Number TL072ACP TL072BCP TL072IP TL072ACPE4 TL072CP TL072IPE4 TL072CPE4 TL072BCPE4
Paul Fechtmeister
2021-12-01 17:39:24 +0000 UTCLink doesn't seem to work
Paul Fechtmeister
2021-12-01 17:34:14 +0000 UTCHas anyone tried Hammermill 163110 glossy laser paper? I've had partial success using transparency film. Needs more experimentation. Some areas transfer well, but some not so good. Haven't etched yet, however. At least I know why my paper transfers from 30 years ago were so dodgy. Plain paper made really indistinct edges.
Scott Dallmeyer
2021-09-21 20:55:27 +0000 UTCI lost my stash in a recent move. Tried some alternatives with disappointing results. I finally tried specialty PCB transfer paper, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MYXK4WJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with a TCC SM-330 laminator. Works very well. Only complaint is that transfer side is so slippery that it is tricky to keep both sides of a 2 sided board lined up while you tape them together.
Tom McCobb
2021-03-13 02:29:05 +0000 UTCJust reading this January 2021 and I discover The HP 884962 248607 paper has been discontinued. Any ideas what paper to use
Keith Davis
2021-01-30 15:38:23 +0000 UTCLacking a laser printer I tried the photo-resist film method but no success. Have no doubt it works but just too many variables and I ended up messing up my shirt with the chemicals which was a surprise. Broke down today and bought a Canon MF264dw laser printer and tried the toner method, but whatever HP paper I had on hand just never seemed to get wet enough. More experimentation is needed but I had great success printing on transparency paper (non-glossy side) then using a very hot iron and lots of pressure, and then slowly peeling up the transparency with the iron still keeping things hot. I'm not sure if the transparency couldn't be used once again. Printed with lots of toner but not sure that was necessary. Again lot of room for experimentation but resulting board was perfect......Oh and I should add that this process goes from printer to etchant-ready in a matter of a few minutes.
Tim Rulon
2020-12-27 22:58:42 +0000 UTCright click the pic. open in new tab, then copy that address
Steve Edwards
2020-06-30 19:45:06 +0000 UTChow do you turn a web site photo into a link?
Robert Barton
2020-06-15 18:54:37 +0000 UTCI make circuit boards quite often and made your IC tester board https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZXh9OkZbNn4jAwrSVV3e3omzaERRpe0HDrX I don't use an iron any more. I get old glossy adverts, the sort that have the local take out advertised and pushed through the door. I print the circuit diagram on a normal sheet of paper using a laser printer just to check for allignment and circuit size, I then tape a small piece of the glossy paper over the printout then run it through my laser printer again. I then tape it to a piece of copper board and soak it in acetate, (nail varnish remover is the easiest to get hold of but ensure it does contain acetate). I then rub it well whilst it is in the acetate and allow it to dry off. Before it is completely dry I run it under a cold water tap and peel the paper off when it is soaked. I check for small spots of paper in the holes as you point out on your video and then etch it in ferric chloride. The picture shows the track after I have removed the ink with paint remover. Bob.
Robert Barton
2020-06-15 18:49:57 +0000 UTCHello - new to the group - I successfully made my 1st circuit board ! I have memories of the old Radio Shack kit - total mess ! I still had to apply a little Sharpie but everything worked out and it looks great. After drilling and populating exactly as described, I’m getting great oscillation. I can adjust output to 2V PP and get a resistance on the VR slightly less than 2x the bulb resting resistance - I guess as it ‘warms’ the resistance goes down a bit, but it’s stable. The gain stage is a mystery as I’m getting 10V PP, not 20V PP. I can increase the gain pot til it starts to clip and then back off a bit, but it’s dead on 10V PP. Am I missing something ? I do not have a R(L) at the output. Should it be loaded ? Thanks - Jamie
James C. Hall
2020-04-22 02:20:34 +0000 UTCI'll take one if you still have them. The bulb I ended up with oscillates like crazy and is unusable. Please email me at brettbecker@gmail.com
Brett Becker
2020-02-12 05:52:22 +0000 UTCMr Carlson, I just have one question: considering how much room you had on that board, why did you stand up the resistors? Inquiring minds want to know! :-P
Bruce Dow
2019-04-15 18:22:26 +0000 UTCAll: I was able to score a pretty good deal on the 7380 lamps. I have 10 of them I can sell for $2 each + postage, if anyone is interested. I'm doing this as a public service, so one per "customer", please. And I'm not making money, so please don't reply that I should not be selling stuff. -Dion
Dion Morehouse
2019-04-02 21:14:33 +0000 UTCGreat job Jason! That sine wave is a thing of beauty.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2018-04-18 10:39:31 +0000 UTCHere's the version with a dual gang 5KΩ pot. Gets between 300Hz and 1KHz without too much fuss. Goes much higher, upwards of 50KHz but starts to go into an oscillation in the higher ranges without additional trimming to stabilize. Anyway on to the next already :) <a href="https://ibb.co/cs5Op7" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://ibb.co/cs5Op7</a> <a href="https://ibb.co/mixEwn" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://ibb.co/mixEwn</a> <a href="https://ibb.co/gyEuwn" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://ibb.co/gyEuwn</a>
Jason Doerr
2018-04-18 05:13:12 +0000 UTCLooks great, and excellent results too! Great job Jason!
Mr Carlson's Lab
2018-04-07 00:08:27 +0000 UTCHi All, here is my Wein Oscillator board populated. I am getting a signal 855Hz with a couple of 1.8KΩ resistors...pretty close to how the math worked out. I'm going to try switching out to a dual VR as suggested or maybe going to a 2 position switch to vary between 400 and 1000 depending on what I have laying around. 2V at pin 1 and 20 out of the pin 7. A thing of beauty! Thanks! <a href="https://ibb.co/mUOWNH" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://ibb.co/mUOWNH</a> <a href="https://ibb.co/n7C2Ux" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://ibb.co/n7C2Ux</a>
Jason Doerr
2018-04-06 23:37:37 +0000 UTCHi Jason. For upcoming projects, you should have a dedicated +5 +15 and -15 supply. Even better if the 15V supplies are variable.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2018-03-02 10:20:32 +0000 UTCHi Paul, is there any drawback (capacitance etc) to inverting the colors so there is less material to be etched away from the board? Also, this may sound odd, but I don't have a decent power supply, but I do have +5v and +15v wall warts. Can I somehow create the -15v supply with the single DC transformer or do I need a separate one? Easier to just buy a power supply? Thanks in advance!
Jason Doerr
2018-02-28 20:12:24 +0000 UTCHello Barrie, have you seen the previous video? Here: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/posts/build-this-low-11523102">https://www.patreon.com/posts/build-this-low-11523102</a> This circuit design needs the bulb, as it's a non linear resistance that changes with the current applied. There are solid state ways around the bulb, but understanding how the bulb works in this circuit is part of the learning curve.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-09-14 08:27:36 +0000 UTCI can't seem to find a circuit description for the Wien Bridge. In particular I'd like to know if the bulb is essential, because in Australia they are $20 for 5 plus postage. I'd like to know if it is possible to operate the circuit without the bulb
Barrie Davis
2017-09-14 06:53:50 +0000 UTCHere is my attempt at everything you will need, just add your own resistors. <a href="http://www.digikey.com/short/qc3cmf" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.digikey.com/short/qc3cmf</a>
David McAnulty
2017-09-02 01:28:56 +0000 UTCThanks Tom, still waiting for my xx15's to come in, hopefully tmw. Going with a gbl04 rectifier, radio shack. If not, got a bunch of 1n40xx laying around. Like they say in Taken....Good Luck.
Hunter carmouche
2017-07-11 23:46:05 +0000 UTCHi Hunter, From the looks of the datasheet, the XX15's can handle 18 to 30 Volts (hopefully this URL comes through the comment system <a href="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ua78.pdf" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ua78.pdf</a> is the sheet for the 7815), with an absolute maximum of 35 volts, although the higher voltages would probably need some sort of heatsinks. Hopefully 21V is low enough to avoid that need, but we'll see, I bought spares!
Tom Stone
2017-07-11 22:22:10 +0000 UTCVery nice lesson indeed . . . this is really pleasant and fun!!! So much so I am compelled to ask a psychological question about electronic engineers: Any of ye hearties have 'The Last of Barrett's Privateers' as a favorite tune aside from me?
Psient
2017-07-08 18:10:36 +0000 UTCHey Tom, I'm trying to understand this power supply stuff out my self. As quoted earlier you multiply 1.41 times 15 in your case and it gives 21.15 volts. Will your XX15's handle that range of voltage?? As you might have seen I'm going with 24volt trans so that comes out to 16.92. Hoping the diode drop will put me on 15. Thanks and I'm curious to see how yours turns out.
Hunter carmouche
2017-07-07 21:57:18 +0000 UTCDue to a sad lack of finding amazing deals on breadboards with every amazing built-in voltage possible (you lucky few, hehe!) - I'm also ordering parts to build a power supply section. I ordered a 553-VPM30-830 (30V CT output transformer) and some 7815 and 7915's too - come on Mouser!
Tom Stone
2017-07-06 21:42:01 +0000 UTCHey John Ward, parts are on their way, I'll let you know.
Hunter carmouche
2017-07-06 01:11:10 +0000 UTCI'm still having trouble coming up with a good +- 15v power supply. One poster would be using 7815 and 7915 in a full wave configuration IE: 20V rectified. I would like to think I could do this but not sure. Anybody else coming up with something that could be put on a circuit board?
John Ward
2017-07-05 20:00:54 +0000 UTCHope so. I bought 20 of them. :) Now to find someone with a laser printer.
Bob Snyder
2017-07-05 01:24:07 +0000 UTCHi Steve, post some pix of your setup in the community section, This way I can possible spot whats happening with your circuit.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-07-04 15:33:24 +0000 UTCI have built the design on breadboard and I can only achieve around 1.6vpp at pin 1 and only 2.6vpp or so at pin 7. I'm pretty new to everything including my oscilloscope so I'm sure there is something Ive done wrong or settings on the oscilloscope are incorrect. I am getting the Hz count at 1.004 Khz so that's good. Any suggestions?
Steve Young
2017-07-04 03:21:41 +0000 UTCWhat type of capacitors are those red ones? Something like this? <a href="https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ecq-e1105kf3/panasonic" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ecq-e1105kf3/panasonic</a>
Bob Snyder
2017-07-02 15:34:47 +0000 UTCNo embarrassment on here Hunter, we are all here to learn!
Smiggy
2017-07-01 04:36:13 +0000 UTCOh God, I just looked at the schematic again and I see it's +-15 volts. I must of got that 20 volts p-p in my head and thought thats what I needed. Sorry for the confusion, so embarrassed.
Hunter carmouche
2017-06-30 21:46:48 +0000 UTCMaybe Paul will cover this topic in a future video and go into a little more detail about designing mains power supplies for the projects?
Smiggy
2017-06-30 14:00:33 +0000 UTCIts obvious that to regulate to 15v the input must be higher but how much. the datasheet for the device will have voltage recommendations for a typical voltage and a minimum voltage to maintain regulation. One of the disadvantages of this type of voltage regulation is the poor efficiency, the regulator is having to dump the difference in voltage and this causes heat. The closer to the minimum volts the less heat is developed, but a good rule of thumb is, as Paul recommended, 5 volts above the regulated volts out.
Smiggy
2017-06-30 13:58:27 +0000 UTCOk, so I need a 15v ct tran, 7815, 7915, after rectification and smoothing I should get 21.15 volts. So I loose the 1.15 as heat through a resistor?? Thanks Paul, Thanks Martin. My good friend I started work with just retired. A Martin Smith from Flint, Michigan...hehehe.
Hunter carmouche
2017-06-30 12:54:48 +0000 UTCHi Hunter, 20 Volts will make the IC into a projectile.. LOL. 7815 and 7915 is the max you should go for a dependable circuit. Run the tranny in a full wave configuration IE: 20V rectified. The less drop across the regulator, the cooler the component will run.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-30 10:10:20 +0000 UTCHey Paul, I printed the circuit layout and will transfer this weekend. My question is the power supply. I bought a triad rectifier power transformer F-93X 40v center tap @ 750Ma DC, some 7820's and some 7920's regulators. Am I headed in the right direction or is this overkill. Transformer is a little bigger than what I was expecting....hehehe.
Hunter carmouche
2017-06-30 01:21:31 +0000 UTCThanks for posting the info Donald!
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-26 10:35:04 +0000 UTCPaul, Staples has the 250 sheet pack HP paper on sale for $9 until July 1st. 73 WB3BJU
Donald D'Egidio
2017-06-24 14:55:27 +0000 UTCHi Karl, feel free to share your circuit in the community section, I would love to see your design! Post your measurements as well. For our future projects (and what this circuit will be subjected too) the TL072 fits the bill, has low enough distortion, is easy to obtain, and is cheap to replace.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-23 01:34:07 +0000 UTCHi Karl - I'd like to see the schematic if it's not too much trouble to post it. Thanks!
jasper_fracture
2017-06-22 23:04:29 +0000 UTCI was wondering on some of the choices for this build. First of all, the resistor values are very large, this will boost johnson noise. Second, I see no bypass for the IC. Minimum the .1uF films should be deployed. I think this will make significant performance improvements. I have a small (breadboard) based circut with LM4562 that has fixed 1kHz -10dB sine with THD around -109dB (0.00036%). Can post measurement and build pics if someone wants. I used to use it as signal generator for an amplifier THD measurements before I had something better to use. Some of that performance will be lost if we boost gain up to 17dB signal level. Moreover, It would be really great to see what difference putting Pauls oscillator on circuit board has made in performance. Should be well in the measurable range. Thanks
Karl H. Peterson
2017-06-22 17:06:41 +0000 UTCHi Carl. It isn't really necessary to tie the two pins of the potentiometer, it's just good practice not to leave the outer pin floating. In high sensitivity circuits, a floating end will possibly induce noise into the circuit.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-21 02:29:28 +0000 UTCR1 is configured as a variable resistor this allows you to fine tune the gain, to give 2 volts on the output pin 1, as opposed to a potentiometer where you are picking a variable voltage off a resistor like R2.
Smiggy
2017-06-20 14:51:50 +0000 UTCI really would like to know if there is a reason on R1 you tie the two pins together. Otherwise, I am having fun learning how to make boards. Hopefully I will get one where I don't etch off too much. It is the printer not the paper. I actually made one good board by using the local FEDEX printer service they have. My home laser printer is worthless for this effort, but I thought I would try it. Keep up the good work.
Carl Davis
2017-06-20 12:51:03 +0000 UTCThat's an interesting process Dawid, I may have to try that some time.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-17 00:29:26 +0000 UTCI'm looking forward to seeing your results Phil.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-16 09:10:57 +0000 UTCPaul... I was hoping that you would do something like this. My experience has been with old school masking using little sets of special tape strips and dots for the component holes ( a long long time ago.). I also used a masking pen to sign the boards. But ever since I saw your awesome video on the toner process, I have been itching to get back into making some PCBs. (I'm kind of afraid to open my old bottle of etching solution though! I think I'll get some fresh stuff...)
nj Phil
2017-06-16 07:48:38 +0000 UTCYou are spot on with your knowledge on drills. Keep the bit short as possible, make sure its sharpened properly and favor a split point over a chisel point. they penetrate soft material much easier.
Karl Kichline
2017-06-16 05:50:50 +0000 UTCGlad your enjoying Richard! Thanks!
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-16 00:38:38 +0000 UTCGreat site. Thanks for all that you do for us novices.
richard scheetz
2017-06-15 13:52:02 +0000 UTCYour technique for centering the holes is exactly what older craftsmen have used in their shops for a long time. The concept is that if you are diligent in selecting and centering your first and smallest bit, the most you should be off center is by 1/2 of the diameter of your smallest pilot bit used. Often times a craftsman will gradually step up the bits to help minimize the possible errors.
richard scheetz
2017-06-15 13:49:02 +0000 UTCHello. When I used toner transfer method, I print the schematic on chalk paper. When you iron the paper to the copper board, you can dip the board with paper into Vinegar. Chalk paper contains calcium carbonate. Chemical reaction between vinegar and calcium carbonate will dissolve it and all that paper will just come off on its own with some CO2 bubbles. Therefore there is little chance to damage your ink. 2CH3COOH + CaCO3 → (CH3COO)2Ca + H2O + CO2(gas) Sometimes you need to use soft brush to wipe the board from precipitate of calcium acetate.
Dawid
2017-06-15 12:40:00 +0000 UTCHi you all, i normally use the photo version with P20 since i find that this works better with very thin traces for surface mount devices, but i also use the T-transfer methode, here is another vid for you guy´s if you dont want to use heat transfer <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBIxvwZ_0og&t=237s&spfreload=1" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBIxvwZ_0og&t=237s&spfreload=1</a>#t=27.510347 Keep it up guy´s .. prototyping is fun :-)
Anders "SM7HCE"
2017-06-14 23:08:59 +0000 UTCOk, just found plenty of videos on YouTube about it. :)
Bob Fuller
2017-06-14 07:49:16 +0000 UTCWould've liked to have seen the whole process of making a pcb using the toner transfer method and the use of the laminator. Do you have another video on that?
Bob Fuller
2017-06-14 07:47:14 +0000 UTCHi Rod. In the beginning, I used inkjet paper in the laser printer, it worked fantastic.... Unfortunately the company changed their glossy formula, and the paper would shrink after it came out of the laminator. This pulled the toner off the board. I experimented with a lot of paper, and found this stuff (posted above) to be the best yet. I also keep the entire package in a large zip lock bag. This also preserves the functionality of the paper.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-14 05:31:14 +0000 UTCThanks for your input Andre!
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-14 05:25:40 +0000 UTCHi Stephen. The laminator was modified mid life due to a NTC thermistor that failed. I now use a diode as a temperature sensor. At the time of the change, I didn't take notes, due to "mid circuit board" failure. The diode has been really dependable, I just need to re draw the schematic.
Mr Carlson's Lab
2017-06-14 05:24:42 +0000 UTCHi Eddie. Inkjet glossy in a laser? Laser glossy perhaps better.
Rod Smallwood
2017-06-14 04:38:57 +0000 UTCRon, I use the cheapest lightweight glossy inkjet photo paper I could find. The last lot I bought was silly cheap at LIDL and works great, although it is inkjet paper it still needs to be printed in a Laser Printer, and all the caveats that Paul mentioned still apply.
Eddie Bray
2017-06-13 21:40:41 +0000 UTCSo glad to see this video on the circuit board layout. can wait to build it. Thanks Paul. On another note... I would like to see how someone would go about trouble shooting or finding a fault if something were to go wrong with the circuit. Just for trouble-shooting a circuit.
Andre Gopee
2017-06-13 18:22:48 +0000 UTCThat paper is not available in the UK . Is there an A4 version
Rod Smallwood
2017-06-13 16:49:56 +0000 UTCVery great explanation Paul! Many thanks! I'm currently drawing a circuit board with connections to the BJT Matcher. Unfortunately I have to wait 'til the weekend to proceed...
Reb Elba
2017-06-13 15:53:07 +0000 UTCPaul, I was SOOOO hoping that you would give a detailed build process of the laminator you use to make the PCBs. Soon, hopefully.
Stephen Erickson
2017-06-13 15:29:29 +0000 UTC
