SakeTami
tempestvr
tempestvr

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3D Print Trial Parts

Hi guys,

This is a development blog post to let you know a bit more about what I have been up to over the last week or so.

I have mostly been getting to grips with a 3D CAD package, which is different from the one I usually use at work. The OSR3 was designed in 2D, which probably shows in the design, but now I am making the switch to 3D printed parts I need to go 3D. I have been practicing on some of the OSR3 parts, looking at reducing the part count.

This is where you can help me. I have included three of the parts I have modelled as an attachment, and I would greatly value some feedback on them. I have printed them all and they seem to work for me, but if those of you with your own printers could have a go at them and let me know that would be great! Once I have a bit of confidence I want to release the part files for a fully 3D printable OSR3.

I also have a concept for a much simplified machine, which will hopefully be a lot easier and cheaper to build than the current OSR3.

Stay tuned!

3D Print Trial Parts

Comments

I would strongly advise against using acrylic. It’s okay to work with, but it can shatter under stress and create sharp edges. Not something you want attached to a motor with kilograms of force.

TempestVR

laser is quick yes, but you have to baby sit it. you could make the parts from delrin (sp?) or acrylic if you wanted to stay on laser but not wood. (2 fusions @ work, fsl@home) engineering resin on a form if ya wanna, but doing 3d prints are really going to let the design spread. side tip, you can just load up the dxf files in fusion, extrude 3 or 6 mm, assemble, tweak, add motor models from digikey, and even test out range of motion and everything. then flat pack unfold it all and get a factory to stamp them out. boom, everyone is a maker

Jake

Sounds like you are pretty tooled up Michael! You dont happen to live in San Francisco near where I am do you??

Peter Acworth

It does take awhile to 3d print, but you can batch all the pieces together so there's little effort involved.

inaun

Just found this project and I am looking forward to getting started. Just want to say that 3d printing takes forever and personally gives me the shits. I have 3x 3d printers and still never use them. I also have a Laser which is loads quicker. I think I might laser this first and get an idea of how it goes together and then mill the parts out of aluminum on my cnc router :)

Michael

If you can mount it rotated up by 90 degrees it certainly will work in that orientation. I am currently working on a new design that will be a lot easier to mount in interesting angles. Hoping to reveal it before the end of the month.

TempestVR

Or maybe the range of angle is already that wide that it can also move to horizontal (or close to horisontal) position?

Mr.Dyngus

Hi Tempest, First of all I would like to say... HOLY SH*T MAN! By that I mean that I realy appreciate your work! I'm starting to gather all of the parts and I'm going for a 3d print. I hope you could help me out assembling it if I have any trouble. And I also have a couple of question. Is it possible to make this robot "work" in 90 degres position. Like for example to use it for standing positions like missionary or doggy. Will it work if I rotate it and mount it to something heavy or do I need to mess with the axis or something? I was laso thinking of mounting it under the table. Ideal would be a robot that works in a range of angles allowing for more postitions to be playable. But is something for the future maybe. Maybe I wil figure out something when I get hands on this thing. Thanks!

Mr.Dyngus

Looks like it requires a special bluetooth dongle for PC, but may work for android/ios bluetooth? https://wiki.dfrobot.com/Bluno_SKU_DFR0267#Configure_the_BLE_through_AT_command NOTE: If you want to use a computer to communicate with Bluno, a BLE link or USB BLE link is needed, the BLE on your computer is not compatible!

inaun

I printed out once of the pieces and it came out great! Stronger than the wooden alternative, significantly less complex to put together, and easier to clean I am sure. I am also interested in mounting solutions..... currently experimenting with a pretty crude wooden structure: https://photos.app.goo.gl/T9B7Rv1syd472AJf6

Peter Acworth

Nice layout, they fit perfectly on my CR10.

Navajo Demar

Great. Can't wait. I have been slow going with my design

Clayfacer

I chose the Romeo Mini because it is basically an Arduino with a nice set of servo pins laid out on it. It’s perfect for this because it’s plug and play. I have had absolutely no success doing anything useful with the Bluetooth function. It seems to be there so you can make a robot and drive it around with their smartphone app, and that’s about it. If anyone can get the Bluetooth working I would love to hear from you.

TempestVR

Hello, Ok, it works ... thanks I would like to know if bluetooth is activated by default or if you have to add the program to activate it ... Thank you

seb37

https://mega.nz/#!11JQEQaY!5LRGMt_gXr1lYdSHz4thpy1xTob2fyWeKskI-hCB_IM Link expires at the end of the month.

Patron

I Intend to continue to support the OSR3. It was never designed as a 3D printed machine though, and I am not happy with a simple conversion of the same parts to 3D print. What I eventually release will probably be a new design but using the same parts.

TempestVR

Would you be able to host those someplace else? Oddly the RealTouchScripts sites registration seems to be down or not sending out validation emails.

Navajo Demar

Thanks, that’s good to know.

TempestVR

Similar, but I’m going for easy build. You’ll see it soon. I put the first prototype together yesterday.

TempestVR

Can we get a look at what you have so far. Is it the same basic design scaled down?

Clayfacer

Pas de problème! All you need to do is go into the Arduino Code and change the pin assignments. Look for this in the Arduino sketch: // Specify which pins are attached to what here #define Servo0_PIN 8 // Fore-Aft Servo #define Servo1_PIN 2 // Right Servo #define Servo2_PIN 3 // Left Servo #define Vibe0_PIN 5 // Vibration motor 1 #define Vibe1_PIN 6 // Vibration motor 2 Change this line: #define Servo2_PIN 4 // Left Servo Everything should then work. Let me know if it doesn’t!

TempestVR

bonjour, J'ai acheté le module Romeo BLE Mini et mon soucie c'est la version 1.1 et donc je n'ai pas la sortie 3...sur la version 1.1 il y a 2-4-7-8 pourrais tu me dire comment on change l'adresse de la sortie....ou m'editer le code a changer dans le programme...merci Hello, I bought the Romeo BLE Mini module and my concern is version 1.1 and so I don't have output 3 ... on version 1.1 there are 2-4-7-8 could you tell me how we change the address of the outlet .... or edit the code to change in the program ... thank you

seb37

Sounds good. I did confirm that the STL conversion of the original DXF's are here as well, for those interested. - https://realtouchscripts.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9273&start=10

Patron

I have decided to move my designs toward using using standard size servos. That gives people a lot of choice. 20kg.cm is easily enough torque.

TempestVR

Another solution to consider is a NEMA16/23 stepper motor with belt drive.

Patron

One question about using weaker servos is a question of speed/power. I definitely think we can agree being able to move quickly is welcome. :) That's something the FL Launch is not great at, except at short cycles. Btw that one is made with a motor that has an encoder on it. Video on it - https://youtu.be/sA7MdO0rEoo?t=2337

Patron

Ok sounds good, are you going to complete the printable version of the existing design also? I've started printing it. So far they look good. The main holder is slightly too large for my container but that could be just the printer, or model (FLG) of holder

Patron

I'm currently looking at a new design that uses standard size servos, which opens up choice and availability enormously. The ones I have are 20kg.cm rated.

TempestVR

What would it take to run these? 80oz/in more torque and faster. https://www.servocity.com/d840wp-servo#258=24&259=25

Patron

Looking at servos, check this place out, they have a ton of different kinds. : https://www.servocity.com/servos

Patron

is any of this on github/gitlab or the like? would be interested in contributing (and still giving some $$ on patreon)

Musharna

+1 on flexible mounting... I think there's a lot that can be done here, like custom 3d printed "interfaces.." essentially 3D print a mold & a shell... or really the mold can be the shell. just need a rigid insert to create the cavity in the silicone. ideas inspired from this that another patreoner posted: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfRIsF71XhE&feature=youtu.be&t=244

Musharna

printing these now with PETG on a modified cr 10s pro... so far so good EDIT: it looks like there are also STL files posted to a forum (found the link in a previous patreon post) https://realtouchscripts.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9273&start=10 ...so if you want to build the full thing with a 3d printer, should be possible?

Musharna

Mounting a device is another topic, so flexible mounting locations are good.

Patron

I also would encourage to not simplify things that lose value for immersion also. Streamlined and optimized is great, dumbing down for cost/etc is less so. If we have a VR headset, a PC to run VAM, etc, then we can save up for whatever you come up with, even if things are tight here and then

Patron

Sweet, downloading right now.

Patron

That would be great. Thanks.

Dahitcha

I’ll add that to my to-do list. A video maybe. It’s not too bad, but can be a bit daunting to start with.

TempestVR

Great job!! Unfortunately it is really difficult to get laser cuttings. Order me a 3d printer today, now I have a reason ;o) Will there be a detailed manual for the Arduino part soon? I'm not so talented in electronics

Dahitcha

Took me a while to figure out what you meant there, but yes I think I can work in an enclosure of some kind. Thanks for the feedback.

TempestVR

Great work! You are a pioneer in every sense of that word.

Leo Jax

I would recommend adding a cover/enclosure for the electronic board. This could be an optional part, but it think it would be wise to cover the electronics from “spattering” (or moving it away via Ethernet, but that can be done by people via putting in an Ethernet extension in the box vice the actual electronics). Edit: also, great work so far!


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