Dungeon Stone Infinity Hallway

To infinity -- and beyond! -- in your OpenForge dungeon.

This infinity hallway can be used for magical shenanigans, or as a simple way to indicate that a hallway goes on for a long time. If infinity is more than you need, we've included files for building just the hallway.

This project has been in the works for years, literally.  I first ordered some of the stuff needed all the way back in February 2018.  Five years later, I've finally nailed down the skills I needed to make this work well.  This print requires special materials, which will leave you with a ton of leftover supplies. If there's demand for it, I'll consider selling kits with the plexiglass, reflective plastic, and stuff to make torches.  Comment if you are interested, and if I see a few, I'll put up a poll.

Check out this video of the hallway in action.

I've made custom bases for hallways. While this tile is technically 3x2, if you print a 3x base, it won't line up well. I've uploaded a new set of bases to solve this problem. The tile is effectively the same as a 2x2 tile with two separate walls attached.  I've also made versions of the bases with more space for electronics, and added space to all sets under 2x2 square bases.  Finally, people have been asking for plain separate wall bases with the new flex magnetic holes in them, so I've added those as well.

How to make the Infinity Hallway

For this print you'll need plexiglass or polycarbonate. It must be 1/16" or smaller. You might struggle if it's larger than 1/20" (0.05 inches). In metric, 1mm or 1.5mm thick. You'll need a way to cut the plexiglass. I've included an svg if you have access to a laser cutter, but a plexiglass cutter will work too. You're cutting for just under 2 inches by 2.5 inches. Once the plexiglass is cut, you'll want to apply the window film cover, then trim it to size. Finally, paint the back of one of the pieces of plexiglass silver, and then after it dries, paint it black.

• 0.04 inch plexiglass sheets
• Plexiglass Cutter
• Window Film Privacy Film
• Silver Paint
• Black Paint

How to make the Torches

• Print the wall you want, a base, and the matching floor that is cut for walls. Use the old base design to give yourself a little more space to play with if you're doing a 2x2 tile. Also print the torch. There are two torch versions. The textured one is better on a resin printer. If you have only FDM, both can work, but the older, untextured torch is easier to print on FDM.
• Paint the tile and glue it.
• Take one of the 2 pin dupont cables and cut it in half. Feed it through the hole. When the wire is out of the other side, pull it snug to get the connector fully into the wall. If you look at the photo above, you can see that the connector goes fully inside the wall. You will always want the cable to have the red and black wires the same on every tile you make. With the wall facing me, I put the red (power) on the left, and black (ground) on the right.
• Strip some insulator off the end of the cable -- long enough that you can feed it through the holes in the lily pad battery holder. Red goes to +, Black to -. I tend to strip off about 1 inch so that I can feed the wire through and then wrap it/tie it to make it secure. It's better if you solder it, but you can get away with wrapping.
• Test the LED in the socket. The longer of the two wires should go in the red side of the connector. Once that's tested and it works, feed the LED through the torch body, test it again, and glue it down. I prefer to file the plastic top to scar it up to make it better at diffusion. Finally. I like to attach the LED with hot glue and shape that into a bit of a flame. Test it in the socket again.
• Once it all works, you can start trimming the wire from the LED so it sits snugly against the wall. Remember: You can't cut something to be longer, so trim it a little at a time and test until the torch can sit snugly against the wall.
• Remove the battery holder, and glue the wall into place on the tile, ensuring the wire makes it inside the middle of the base.
• Now, you can choose to feed it out through one of the clip holes, or trim it down and reattach the battery holder. There's a photo above showing how I fit the LilyPad inside the base.
• Finally, if you have any problems, come chat in the OpenForge Discord. We should be able to help you out.

Here's the set of gear I recommend:

• Flickering LEDs You can do 3mm or 5mm. Overall, 3mm is probably better, but I did 5.
• 2 pin female Dupont cables
• LilyPad CR2032 Battery Holder Cabled interior in normal 2x2 floor, no soldering required.
• CR2032 Battery Holder Cabled exterior, or in a 2x4 floor, soldering required.
• CR2032 Batteries

Soldering

If you choose to go this path.

• Soldering Iron
• Solder
• Heat Shrink Tubing

Also useful

• Hot Glue Gun Used to cover LED and sculpt flame
• Mini Files For scraping up the LED surface for better diffusion

Grab the files

• Attached Here
• Thingiverse
• MyMiniFactory
• In the OpenForge Dropbox under OpenForge/tiles/dungeon_stone/misc/infinity_hallway

USB Flash Drives

We’re offering the entire OpenForge collection through 12/2022 on a single USB stick in our online store, Masterwork Tools. It’s $35 for about 1400 unique designs. All designs remain available here on Patreon and on Thingiverse and MyMiniFactory, but this is a nice convenience if you don’t want to spend all that time downloading files. See the OpenForge Resources for a patron code to get free shipping at checkout.