Completed Ultra Probe Assembly Instructions!

I repair ventilators, and we have issues finding air leaks. If the tip was placed into the stream of moving air, would it be able to sense the leak?

Dan Blankenship

I'm pretty sure he already is a millionaire, just look at all the shops, equipment, supplies and items repaired or that need repair he has shown us. Plus someone in his career I am sure got paid very well and lets not forget that he probably still gets paid bug bucks for any work he does on the side. Oh and his YouTube and Patreon got to be pulling down some serious cash every month.

John E Barron III

I think you could become a millionaire from your builds if you sold them. You’re that good. Thanks Paul!

Billy Sharp

Please excuse my ignorance but I cannot find the documentation and layout files to this project. Do I need to upgrade my Tier level to see it?

Orville Jones

Is there any reason that the ground cable and crocodile clip need to feed out of the back like that? It would seem neater to me if I could put a combination 4mm socket and binding post on the top edge with the other sockets. That way I could plug in a grounding cable or improvise something on a ‘per case’ basis. Would that work? Would it be best near the power connector or the BNC?

Alex Wade

Just completed my Ultraprobe and amplifier unit now. I was trying to see if there was a way to post pictures. I redesigned the amplifier unit PCB for through hole components. Its working really well. How can I show pictures here?

Pete

A bit of a trap some people might run into. I got mine assembled and it was working a bit weirdly. The "GAIN" and "INDICATOR SENSITIVITY" knobs were not operating as I expected. Then I worked out the problem. I assumed the potentiometer labelled '500 Ohm VR "SENSITIVITY"' on the "Carlson Ultra Probe Demodulator Amplifier PCB Component Map" was to go in position "INDICATOR SENSITIVITY" on the enclosure artwork label since the both mention "SENSITIVITY", and the potentiometer labelled '100K VR "INDICATOR LED GAIN"' was to go in position "GAIN" on the enclosure artwork label since they both mention "GAIN". This was incorrect. You can see in some parts of Paul's video above how the potentiometers are supposed to be wired. Confusingly, it should be potentiometer labelled '500 Ohm VR "SENSITIVITY"' on the "Carlson Ultra Probe Demodulator Amplifier PCB Component Map" goes in position "GAIN" on the enclosure artwork label, and the potentiometer labelled '100K VR "INDICATOR LED GAIN"' goes in position "INDICATOR SENSITIVITY" on the enclosure artwork label. Perhaps you can understand my confusion. I was able to swap the potentiometer positions without too much trouble and now all is well.

plurn

I can't find a way to pm you. I bought a membership and I want the files for the new version of the probe please.

Phil May

Where are the ultra probe Instructions and part list?

Phil May

Hi. New member here. Can anyone tell me how to get hold of the assembly notes etc for the Ultraprobe. I would like to build to build one. But can't seem to find the details etc. Many thanks

Pete

No, mine are 22. I think You can find them in most sizes.

Aleksander

Are all of the wires at 14 gauge silicone?

John Parker

I posted a link to picture. Here it is in case that didn't work. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10233006106604533&set=gm.7469744616475999&idorvanity=709894589127736

Paul Eisenberg

My project is not finished yet, but the front of the case is. I can post a picture of that. The decals are Wellington Water Slide Decal Paper for Laser printers. I got a pack of 20 8-1/2 by 11 sheets. Here is a link to Amazon site. If you have a color laser printer you can create color decals. Print, cut out, wet, slide into place. Optional clear coat for durability. It also shows how I just drilled small holes instead of a big one and grill for the speaker.

Paul Eisenberg

I would be interested in that process & a pic in the shared projects section.

John Parker

Hi Paul, You have PM'd me many times, I just sent you a PM to respond to. If you can't locate the PM, just email me and I will sent you a screen shot of the PM section.

Mr Carlson's Lab

Paul Rawlings

You can still use any Duracells, regardless. All you have to do is keep an eye on them 24/7 so the time bombs never happens...:)

Ovi4

Thanks Greg. In that case I will go with 2 x lithium 18650 (8.4V to 6.2V).

plurn

finally found the right combination for toner transfer method, had to revert to cutting up my wife's magazine for the paper. I miss my old laser printer. Got a shipment from DigiKey today and will begin my build

David Hoppe

Thanks Robert!

Mr Carlson's Lab

That looks gorgeous! Thanks, Paul.

Robert Calk Jr.

I thought I heard in one of his PCB making vids he mentions coating the entire completed board in Polyurethane clear coat.

Hugh

Instead of the paper label artwork, I found a source of laser printable, water applied decals that work on smooth glossy paint. I created my own artwork and will print and apply them after the box is painted and all parts installed and tightened. Using decals avoids issues of damage the paper labels, and they are clear, so color matching is a non-issue. I tweaked the language and layout of the graphics a little bit for better clarity and to allow using 3 separate decals for ease of application and to avoid having to punch holes in any of the decals. Top decal is two lines with "INDICATOR" on top line, then "HIGH GAIN, RF/AUDIO" on lower line. Middle decal is "LOW GAIN, ON, RF DEMOD" on top line, with "GAIN ADJ, VOLUME, INDICATOR SENSITIVITY" on lower lines. Bottom decal is "CARLTON ULTRA PROBE". The language changes and position changes make the control functions clearer. Since the "INDICATOR" label is below the indicator LED, I moved the "ON" label to be below the on LED. There was room to expand Hi Low labels to add "GAIN" to each, and I changed the language of the audio/rf and RF demod functions to say that on the switch labels. Seems clearer to me to consistently use either "Demod" or "Detect" and misleading to label the up position only "audio" when it's both rf and audio, just absent the demod.

Paul Eisenberg

Paul did say in one of the vids that speaker can be 4 or 8 ohms due to amp he spec'd. I think he said his speaker cut out was a 2-5/8" circle. Instead of that large hole, for my 3" speaker I laid out and drilled a symmetrical pattern of sixteen 5/16" holes in the box itself to act as the grill. Plenty of speaker audio, better speaker protection, flatter install.

Paul Eisenberg

I agree Panasonic Eneloop is a fantastic rechargeable battery choice. I had great results with it even though I still use Duracells (but mostly the industrial-grade ones) and never had a leaky one (so far).

Ovi4

I use a sheet of Plexi Glass and heated it in a shape to hold one of my meter upright.

Andre Gopee

After endless alkaline battery clean-ups, I've moved to using Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA and AAA batteries for anything that's not going to get regular use. They are expensive (even more so than a couple of years ago, grrr...) but so is my time cleaning things up because of leaks. Alternatively for things that don't require much disassembly to replace batteries, I've switched to using Panasonic Eneloop rechargeables.

Jim H

Yeah, the MG 421A liquid tin solution is expensive even here in the US.

Jim H

Duracells are the worst. I use RayOVac batteries and have never leaked for me. I also use PowerEx rechargeable batteries.

Denis Renaud

Does anyone know the acceptable battery voltage range for this? I don't like using alkaline due to leakage so plan to use either 2 x lithium (8.4V to 6.2V) or 7 x aa NiMH ready-to-use(~9.5V to 7V) - or maybe 6 NiMH. What voltage is too high and what is too low?

plurn

cool guitar pedal

atlestroms

Beautiful build.

Tom Harris

I also cringed when I saw the Duracells. They've become little time bombs.

Joe Wiesenfelder

Paul , very professional. Well done,beautiful case.

Richard Prendergast

I felt the same way, but now I am glad I was able to make my own.

Larry { N7LUF }

I wished you had talk more on the speaker you used, like size and ohm's. Also the length of the cable to the probe. I am trying to make mine just like your's. I also have to say I have become very up set with Duracell batteries leaking and destroying many of my electronic.

Larry { N7LUF }

The entire Ultra Probe project is simply Amazing. The Ultra Probe itself is such a beauty. You make me laugh when you've said "Junk Parts" those are gold pieces. Thank your time and for share the whole thing!

Andrés Viana

box-mounted component wiring picture at 07:45

Paul Coaker

Regarding the pcb traces being untinned, I have some questions. 1) is it ok to leave it untinned long term or will the copper corrode away or cause issues after a couple decades? 2) Is it ok to tin just with solder and a soldering iron over all the traces or could this damage the traces?; reason I am asking is the only liquid tin I have found is AU$155 for a small bottle and I can't justify that expense. Considered making liquid tin but found the hydrochloric acid available to me has impurities that make it unsuitable.

plurn

Hi Brian. The unit should be battery operated (and stand alone) for isolation reasons, but you can put the speaker where you like. Thanks for your kind comment.

Mr Carlson's Lab

You've done a beautiful job of that, Paul. Just a question. Could I move the speaker to the lid (Above the circuit board) and feed it with a wall wort. Plus put the capacitor tester on its place. That way I would just have the one box on my bench. Or would the electronics interfere with each other?

Brian Wood

Looks great Paul! I can't wait to start building mine. I think I finally have enough parts and tools, including a workable laminator, to build mine soon. Yes, it takes me forever to collect these things but living overseas does that to you. One thing I can suggest for a stand is to use a wire tablet stand available in the 100 yen shops near me, and, I'm guessing, the Dollar Tree stores in the US and Canada. Dirt cheap, it stores flat and fits inside the zipper bag that my DMM came in, along with the meter.

kmpres

Looks great! After seeing the size of the components on the PCB with your fingers as reference, I’m just going to stick with my Eico 147, and build one of your other probes. I already have the 8.2 M Ohm resistor, and the 1N5711 diodes. I can work with those sized parts.

Brent Horn

Great project, but I don't have time to make the PCBs. I would build one if Paul would sell blank boards. I know he wants us to learn to make boards, but I don't see that happening anytime soon (even though I think I have all I need). I always just have too much going on. Is not the heart of the probe in the blue probe and this is more or less and amplifier and speaker?

David Kuhn

Why am I locked out I am a member but I can not open videos I would to see ?

Mr. Bill

Looks superb - very classy. I'm just about to complete assembly so very timely

John

Those silicon wires are great, I use them in almost every project. Precisely because they don't shrink. Project looks super clean, great job!

Aleksander

Instead of an angled bracket, how about a folding stand like what you find on the back of multi-meters (except made of metal)?

Chip

👍

RS Electron

Thanks Michael!

Mr Carlson's Lab

Yes, all my "first boards" are not tinned. If I make more than one, I will tin from then on.

Mr Carlson's Lab

Very nice, thanks for all your hard work with this project.

Alan Wood

I see the circuit board traces are not tinned.

RS Electron

Very professional as soon as I complete my medical issues I plan to build the unit

John Kiernan

Very nice, meticulous work. I feel the same way building projects.

Ed_G.

YES YES! Do the angled bracket and show how you do it. The finished Ultra Probe looks great!!!

Michael, KE4EST